Vaishali Travel Guide
¤ The Land of Lord Buddha and
Mahavira
 A
touch of history, the spark of spirituality and a streak of glamour,
combined together to write off a place thousands of years ago.
Precisely this place is credited with being the world’s first
republic to have a duly elected assembly of representatives.
Vaishali, in north Bihar, ranks among few of the rare places in
history that has left behind a trail of events that reflect the pride
of ancient India. Long before the advent of Buddha, Vaishali was a
flourishing republic (in fact the earliest examples in India of
oligarchic republics like those of Greece). The city of Vaishali was
not only the capital of the Lichchhavi clan, but also the metropolis
of the entire confederancy which spread across the Himalayan Gangetic
region that extended as far as the Nepal hills.
¤ The Great History
Little is known about the early history of Vaishali. However the
process of breaking down the barriers of race and class or caste, by
intermarriages, interchange of vocations had commenced much before the
advent of Jainism and Buddhism. The earliest recorded king of
Vaishali, Nabhaga is believed to have abdicated over a question of
human rights and proclaimed, " I am now a free tiller of the
soil, king over my acre." Nabhaga was the first among the list of
34 kings mentioned in the Vishnu Puran. The last among them was
Sumati, a contemporary of Raja Dasratha (father of Ram – the epic
hero).
Six centuries later, Vaishali emerges into a Republic under the care
of Lichchhavis. In all probability it was not the outcome of any
revolution leading to the overthrow of monarchy. It appears to be the
result of a gradual growth effected by the transformation that was
brought about by the younger sons of the kings sharing authority with
the elder ones and this practice may have continued, leading to the
gradual increase in the number of ruling princes, until the number
7707 was reached. Another presumption is the accumulation of wealth in
the hands of the royal family members. This may have led to a desire
for active participation in the affairs of the government that
eventually brought about the change.
Historians differ about the origin of the Lichchhavis (skin thin).
Some believe them to be of Tibetan descent as evident from traits
appearing in the statues and moreover the presence of various
identical cultural aspects and administrative elements. Like the
Tibetans, the Lichchhavis too exposed the dead bodies and their
criminal justice was equally similar. The unique feature of this
judicial administration was that a criminal could only be punished if
he had been found guilty by the seven successive tribunals unanimously
though any one of them could acquit him. Thus, the liberty of
individual was safeguarded in a way that was unique in the world’s
history.
¤ Lord Buddha
Lord Buddha compared them to the gods in Indra’s (the chief
among Vedic gods) heaven. In Chinese accounts they are referred to as
free, wild and handsome lot who dressed well in bright colours, drove
fast carriages but were wanton, insolent and utterly irreligious. "
For sure, these dashing young fellows with their brilliant equipages
and saucy manners must have presented in Vaishali a marked contrast to
Buddha and his somber clothed disciples" remarks Yuan Chwang in
his travel accounts of 7th century India.
Lord Buddha greatly admired the Lichchhavi constitution and it is
evident that he borrowed a good deal from it to run his own religious
order. For instance, the rules on moving resolutions, voting by
ballot, decision by majority of votes, the reference of complicated
questions to committees, rules about quorum, votes of absentees and so
on. Buddha was firm in his expression that so long as the Lichchhavis
remained united and true to their democratic constitution, their
enemies would not be able to overcome them.
The Lichchhavis and their neighbouring Magadhans were perpetually at
war. A number of times the Lichchhavis attacked first but the last war
was well planned by the Magadhans who had successfully undermined the
unity of the Lichchhavis. The eight year war established the hegemony
of Magadha but the Lichchhavi pride never waned and even centuries
later, when Chandragupta married a Lichchhavi princess, his successors
issued coins with proud proclamations that they were ‘the sons
and daughters of the Lichchhavis.’
¤ Lord Mahavira
Lord Mahavira was born in Vaishali and spent twelve rainy seasons
here while Lord Buddha left Kapilavastu in search of knowledge and he
first came to Vaishali which was known for its abundance of spiritual
teachers. He joined the ashram of Alara Kalama and later moved to
Rajgir to be in the company of Ramaputra Udraka. Five years after his
enlightenment at Bodh Gaya, Buddha was invited by the Lichchhavis to
ease their sufferings. The republic was reeling under the spell of
famine but with the arrival of Buddha, thunderstorm was followed by
rain. Buddha remained here for a week and after cleansing the place of
its pestilence he left for Rajgriha.
¤ Buddha's Sermons
Buddha visited Vaishali a number of times and is believed to have
delivered several sermons which abound in interesting accounts of the
different sojourns of Buddha. He was most impressed by the landscape
of the place. He is believed to have remarked about the beauty of
Vaishali to his closest disciple, Ananda, "The prosperity of
heaven could be gauged by only looking after the prosperity of
Vaishali." In Tibetan works Vaishali has been described as a
prosperous and opulent city, a kind of earthly paradise with handsome
buildings, parks, gardens, ponds enclosed within three walls with
gates and watch towers.
¤ Mahavana- The Site of Buddhist Monastery
In the neighbourhood of Vaishali was the mighty stretch of the
Mahavana (forest). A grand double storeyed Buddhist monastery,
Kutagarasala, resembling a chariot of the gods was set up for Buddha
and his monks. Buddha often discoursed here. Much against his wishes,
he extended spiritual enfranchisement to women by admitting them to
the Holy Order which was founded here. The first Buddhist nun to be
ordained to the Bikshuni Sangha was his foster mother, Mahaprajapati
Gautami.
¤ The Legend
Legend has it that on one of his visits, several monkeys dug up a
tank for his comfortable stay and offered him a bowl of honey. This is
regarded as one of the great incidents in the legends of Buddha who
announced his approaching Nirvana and preached his last sermon here.
The Lichchhavis came a long way to bid him farewell on his way to
Kushinagara and finally they were stopped by a river created by Lord
Buddha. Buddha once again paused to have a last glance of his
much-loved city of Vaishali. As a pity for their distress, Buddha had
already given his alms bowl which remained in Vaishali for a long time
and then it was carried away to Gandhara. A hundred years after the
demise of Buddha, a council of 700 monks met here to decide on the ten
points of Vanaya (rule of conduct) which were under dispute. The monks
at Vaishali were given to luxury in the eyes of other Buddhists who
resented the new wave of changes here. History accounts for river Su
where the nuns and the monks are believed to have once bathed with
childish enjoyment.
¤ Vaishali The Land of Ambapali- The Famous Courtesan
The Pali texts refer to Vaishali as the land of Ambapali. She was
graceful, beautiful, pleasant, gifted with the highest beauty of
complexion, well versed in singing, dancing and flute playing. It is
said that Ambapali was the daughter of unknown parents and found at
Vaishali in the king’s gardens, at the foot of a mango tree. The
gardener found her and brought her to the city. She was known as the
mango guardian’s girl. and such was her beauty, grace and charm
that many young princes strove with each other to possess her. Finally
she was appointed as ganika or courtesan in the town of Vaishali. Even
Ajatshatru, the hostile Magadhan king was drawn to Vaishali by the
charm of Ambapali, who bore him a son named Abhaya. Ambapali’s
raving beauty prompted Bimbisara to appoint a parallel courtesan for
his capital city Rajagriha.
Buddha and his followers were not averse to courtesans. On his last
visit to Vaishali, the first invitation came to him from Ambapali,
much to the chagrin of Lichchhavis who asked her to give up the
privilege of serving food to Buddha. The proud courtesan did not
relent and soon Buddha and his retinue arrived at Ambapali’s
residence to take their meals. When Buddha had finished his meals she
dedicated her mango grove to the Bikku Sangha. The way in which
Ambapali went to receive Buddha with her retinue and vehicles shows
that her paraphernalia was almost royal. Ambapali soon accepted the
Buddhist faith and remained famous as one of the most loyal and
generous supporters of the Buddhist order.
¤ The Fading Glory of Vaishali
Picturesque Vaishali, surrounded by banana and mango grove amidst
paddy fields does not appear to have changed much. Fa Hien who visited
India between 399-414 AD attests to have seen most of the monuments
mentioned in the texts but three centuries later when Huen Tsang
visited the site, he was disappointed to see the Viharas deserted and
dilapidated. The place so loved by Buddha had been converted to
wilderness. A more gloomy picture was painted by Yuan Chwang who
visited Vaishali in the 7th century AD. He was not able to trace most
of the monuments and the ones that survived were in terrible
condition.
¤ An Archaeological Site
Thanks to the archaeologists who have come up with only a fraction of
what Vaishali was made up of a good number of monuments and memorials
like the stupa containing relics equivalent to half the body of
Ananda, venue of second Buddhist Council, tower of deposited club and
bows, the memorial marking the spot from where Buddha took his last
glance, etc. have yet to be traced. The undiscovered stupa contains
the relics and Ananda, Buddha’s closest disciple, revives the
legend of his nirvana. Torn between the strife of Vaishali and Magadh,
Ananda is believed to have burnt his body in a fiery ecstasy of
meditation while he was crossing the river Ganges. He divided his body
into two parts, leaving half of it on each bank. A stupa was erected
by the Lichchhavis in Vaishali which was attested by the early
travelers but today it remains untracted like the tower of deposited
bows and clubs which marks the surrender of arms by the thousand sons
who were abandoned by their parents. They had come to attack from the
side of foster father but after recognising their mother by receiving
the thousand jets of milk from her breasts, they laid down their arms.
¤ Main Attractions
The best place to begin your tour is Kolhua
where a life size lion pillar beside a brick stupa is all set to
greet you. It commemorates Buddha’s last sermon and announcement
of his approaching nirvana to his disciples. The sandstone pillar
supporting an inverted lotus shaped capital with a life sized lion
faces north - the direction Buddha took on his last voyage. History
further unfolds here with the legend of monkey chief offering honey to
Buddha and digging up a tank, Markatahrada, for his comfortable stay.
The stupa was originally built by emperor Ashoka with lime plaster
over it but subsequently enlarged by bricks during the Kushan period.
In the surrounding there is a cluster of votive stupas with a small
temple amidst it. Nearby are the monastic remains of Kutagarashala,
where Buddha resided during his sojourn.
Vaishali Museum
From Kolhua, drive back to the Vaishali museum, which houses
archaeological remains discovered at various sites in Vaishali. (A
better collection of terracotta figurines, pottery inscribed seals,
vessels, coins, ornaments, clay toys can be seen at Patna Museum) Some
polished and well cut stone weights in the multiples of 1: 2: 4: 8: 16
together with seals of the guild of traders and bankers adds to the
economy and trade links of Vaishali. Close to the museum is circular
tin shed to arouse your curiosity. One may dismiss it as a rain
shelter amidst a small park but thanks to the board that speaks all
about the remains of a stupa under the shed which once housed the
Buddha’s funeral ashes which were found in a casket buried in the
relic chamber along with a beautiful terra-cotta head of the Buddha
(now preserved in the National Museum, Delhi)
The Cremation of Lord Buddha
History records that after the cremation of Lord Buddha by the Mallas
of Kushinagra, his ashes were divided among the six heads of state
(Ajatashatru of Magadha, Shakyas of Kapilavastu, Bulis of Alikappa,
Koliyas of Ramagrama, Brahmin of Vethadipa and Lichchhavis of
Vaishali) and the two mallas of Kushinagra and Pawa. The Lichchhavis
received 1/8 of his ashes and they buried it here under the mud stupa
which was later enlarged by the Mauryas, Sungas and Kushans.
Coronation Tank
On the other front of the museum is the Abhishekh Pushkarni or the
Coronation Tank of the Lichchhavis which provided water for ceremonial
sprinkling. Vaishali’s elected representatives were anointed here
before their swearing in. The water of this tank was scrupulously
guarded against pollution by people not belonging to the royal
families. There are references to a Magadhan commander in chief who
was hotly pursued by the Lichchhavi kings for having bathed his wife
in it. The original tank of the Lichchhavis must have been a smaller
one which appears to have been subsequently enlarged.
The Attraction of Ponds
Vaishali was rich in ponds and no less than 52 ponds are believed to
have enchanced the beauty of this republic. Most of them have dried up
but others survive with a bit of history floating amidst them.
Ghordaur Pokhar located around the boundary of Basrah and Chakramdas
is supposed to be the venue for horse races in ancient Vaishali. Bawan
Pokhar continues to be a picturesque sight with a few boats drifting
against the cluster of white and pink lotuses. Further ahead is the
Lotus Tank where there is a still greater profusion of lotuses. The
panorama here simply glorifies the profile of the ancient city. This
place was popular with the Lichchchhavis as their picnic spot.
The Temple
Around Bawan Pokhar is an old temple housing a rich collection of
black basalt Hindu images dating back to the Gupta and Pala periods.
Similar statue but that of a Tirthankara can be seen in the adjoining
Jain temple. A little distance away is the Harikatora temple, famous
for the image of Kartikeya (a south Indian deity), seated on the
peacock which is another fine example of Gupta art. An interesting
four headed Shivling called Chaumukhi Mahadev belonging to the fourth
century AD lies few kilometres from the tourist bungalow.
Vishwa Shanti Stupa
On one side of the Abhishek Pushkarni is the newly built Vishwa
Shanti Stupa
(World Peace Stupa) that adds to the glory of Vaishali. It is sixth
in the series to be created in India after Rajgir, Dhauli, Leh, Wardha
and Darjeeling by Nipponzan Myohoji under the guidance of Rev.Fuji
guruji of Japan. The 125 feet tall peace pagoda, inaugurated on Oct
23, 1996, was constructed over the ruins of the sixth century BC stupa
that also contained the casket with the ashes of Buddha. Buddha is
believed to have preached his last sermon here which was the sixteenth
chapter, Saddharmapundarika Sutra.
Raja Vishal ka Garh
Another important landmark is the Raja Vishal ka Garh
Raja Vishal ka Garh - an excavated site (a kilometre in circumference
) that is believed to be the remains of the ancient parliament house
where the federal assembly gathered to discuss and regulate the
ancient republic. The original building can hardly be construed but it
is believed to have an eight feet high wall with 140 feet deep moat
around it and was approached by a broad embanked causeway from the
south. Remains of the defence walls can be seen around the village of
Konsa and Dharahara, about 2km south of Raja Visala ka Garh.
4km away at Kundapur is a commemorative plaque, marking the
birthplace of Lord Mahavira. Also at Vaishali is the famous dargah of
Miranji which houses the relics of a 15th century saint, Sheikh
Mohammed Faizullah Qazim whose ancestor was Hazrat Taj Fakih,
associated with the dargah at Maner.
¤
Resources
1.Vaishali, 55km from Patna can easily be reached in an hour from by
car. It is well connected with Patna by road bridge over the river
Ganges. The convenient railheads are Hajipur (35km) and Muzaffarpur
(37km).
2.The best place to stay is at Tourist Bungalow maintained by BSTDC.
Other options are Youth Hostel and PWD’s inspection bungalow.
3.The best time to see Vaishali is between October and March. One may
consider Vaishali together with Sonepur Cattle Fair (which is almost
halfway between Patna and Vaishali) during October/November. Mid April
may be the second choice when Vaishali is geared for the Vaishali Maha
Utsav celebrating the birth anniversary of Lord Mahavira.
¤ Vardhaman Mahabira
Vardhaman Mahavira, the twenty-fourth and last among the Jain
tirthankaras, was a Vaishalian born in a Kshatriya royal family. The
year of birth is believed to be 599 B.C. and the place is marked as
Kundapura. After thirty years of aristocratic living he finally opted
to renounce the world after the death of his parents. In fact,
renunciation was his plan quite early in life but to keep his parents
happy he married Yasoda and remained a householder.
Mahavira travelled extensively during his ascetic life. He went about
stark naked and allowed insects to live on his body. Finally, after 12
years he attained enlightenment under a sal tree on the banks of
Rijupallika river in Hazaribagh. There on he became a Kevatin or the
repository of supreme knowledge and wisdom.
Besides Ahimsa, Mahavira’s teaching included Syadvada and
Karmavada. Syadvada stood for the art of appreciating other’s
views and philosophy. The doctrine of Karma preached that everyone was
the architect of his own future, being capable of attaining perfection
and no divine favour is required for this. It throws on the individual
self the whole burden of responsibility for what he does, thinks and
speaks. He stressed on the austere practice of asceticism and the
extreme sanctity of life.
¤ Ashokan Pillars
Several Ashokan pillars dot the Buddhist map of India. Six of these
have been unearthed in Bihar and they are believed to mark the stages
of Ashoka’s journey (or that of Buddha or both) on the ancient
royal highway from Lumbini in Nepal to Pataliputra, the Magadhan
capital.
These forty feet high sandstone pillars bear the typical Mauryan
polish and most of them bear inscriptions that extol the Dhamma or the
Law of Piety propounded by Ashoka. The thickness of these shafts
gradually decreases from four feet to three feet as it tapers to the
top which is capped by a capital and further surmounted by a life
sized animal like a lion or bull, attached by means of copper bolts.
¤ Other Excavation Sites
Besides Kolhua pillar at Vaishali, similar monoliths were excavated
from Lauria Areraj, Lauria Nandangarh, Rampurva and most recently from
Patna. The pillar at Areraj is bereft of its capital but the
inscriptions are identical to those of Nandangarh which is replete
with a capital and a lion (partly damaged). The villagers refer to
these pillars as Bhim Sen ki Lathi or Laur Baba and even worship it as
a phallic emblem. At Nandangarh, annual fairs are held around the
pillar which coincides with 9th Chaitra (birthday of Lord Ram) and
13th Aghan (marriage of Sita with Ram).
Some historians believe that the origin of the fair predates the
creation of the pillar, as evident from the existence of about a dozen
Vedic burial mounds in close proximity to the Nandangarh pillar. The
sepulchral mounds contain the remains of Indian ruling clans of pre -
Buddhist times. One such excavation in 1868 exposed a coffin
containing an unusually long human skeleton. Buddha referred to these
funerary mounds as Chaityas and wanted people to adore them. It must
have been a pilgrim point since then and considering the large
gathering there, the pillar was erected to draw the attention of the
crowd and moreover it stood by the highway too. Few kilometres from
this pillar is the 80 feet high Nandangarh Stupa composed of bricks of
various sizes.
Twenty miles east of this site lies Rampurva where two of the pillars
are believed to have fallen soon after their erection. One of them was
inscribed and was surmounted by a lion while the other was uninscribed
and carried a bull capital.
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