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Enjoying the privilege of a
being a capital of diverse dynasties, Delhi, has evolved as a museum
showcasing the royalty of the ruling elite's and their monumental
heritage.
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India -
Delhi - Bijai Mandal:
Bijai Mandal
Bijai Mandal Within walking distance
from the Begumpuri masjid is the Bijai Mandal. It used to be part of
Muhammad-bin-Tughlaq's palace in Jahanpanah. The Arab wandering cleric
Ibn Batuta, who spent quite a portion of his amazing voyages here, has
written extensively about it. It must have been quite a fish market
then, what with people coming in or going out and hundreds of
retainers running loose all over the place. Consider this description
that Batuta gives of the entrance to the palace.
¤ The Descriptions of Sultan's Palace
The sultan's palace at Dihli is called Dar Sara and contains many
gates. At the first gate there are posted a number of men in charge of
it, and beside it sit buglers, trumpeters and pipe players. When any
amir or person of note arrives they sound their instruments and say
during this fanfare "so and so has come…" – the
same also takes place at the second and third gates. Outside thefirst
gate are platforms on which sit the Jalladun (floggers)…between
the first and second gatesthere is a large vestibule with platforms …
on which sit troops whose turn of duty it is to guard the gates. At
the second gate also are seated the porters… between the second
and third gates thereis a large platform on which the principal naqib
(judge) sits; in front of him there is a gold mace,which he holds in
his hand the other naqibs stand before him…
of course you would never guess it by looking at it now. It is very
hard to imagine that all this bustle and activity was routine in what
is now a hushed still.
The second gate led you to what Ibn Batuta calls the 'Hazar Ustan',
which means in Persian 'a thousand pillars'. This was an immense hall
of Public Audience in which people used to sit waiting for their
sultan. One imagines the sultan entering this hall in full splendor,
with the retainers calling everyone to alert that the sultan was
approaching. Seated on a plush elevated throne, the sultan held
addressed his people's complaints, addressed the public and reviewed
his troops. Everyone who came and went to the public hall had to write
their name down at the entrance, whether noble or commoner. In the
evening the sultan himself checked this report. Any nobles holding an
official rank or position, who absented themselves without excuse from
the court for more than three days would not be allowed to enter the
gate without the sultan's personal permission; seems like employers
down the centuries have been of a single mind.
¤ Bijai Mandal
The Bijai Mandal is basically a huge octagonal tower with sloping
walls, set on a lofty grassy platform. Steps lead up to the tower,
although there is also a mossy pathway from one side which goes up to
it – it seems it was for the elephants who used to come up for
inspection and parade before the sultan. In front of the building, you
can still see the remains of pillars of the hall of the thousand
pillars.
If you climb up the tower – very carefully – you
might find the hotchpotch vista amusing. The intimidating silhouette
of the Begumpuri masjid jostles with the comparatively unimaginative
and crowded south Delhi localities.
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