¤ Embroidery In Gujarat

Gujarat’s contemporary indigenous dress is a cultural manifestation that has evolved over centuries and has remained a principal mark of identity and social cohesion. While dress is indicative of social difference, it is also one of the first indicators of identity that disappears in the process of cultural assimilation and racial mingling.


¤ Kutch's World Renowned Work

The best pick up point for ethnic embroidery in Gujarat is Kutch, which was once a part of the trade route between Central Asia and the Far East. Given Gujarat’s coastline and numerous harbours, it exposed the land to the outside world. Some of the best and oldest textiles were created in Gujarat and they were in great demand in other parts of Asia. Old Kutchis still recount romantic tales of caravans laden with silk, pearls, carpets, etc. traversing the Rann to reach the port cities. Influences and impact of the outside world had its effect on embroidery as well.As in all desert and semi-desert regions, life here is varied, there is little to celebrate but for the women of Kutch who weave a magical world of colour and celebrate everyday life. Elements and traces of Baluch or Sindhi embroidery merging with those of the Kutch are well established. Marco Polo, writing about Gujarat, says “They also work here beautiful mats in red and blue leather, exquisitely inlaid with figures of bird and beasts and skillfully embroidered with gold and silver wire. They are marvelously beautiful things, they are used by the Saracens to sleep upon.”


¤ Diverse Variety of Embroidery

Embroidery, in Gujarat, is akin to ritual decoration and can be found everywhere. Toran is the most common embroidered doorway decoration with hanging flaps, which is supposed to ventilate good luck. Pachhitpatis (embroidered frieze) are hanged from the corners as a welcome symbol to the visitors. Chaklas (embroidered square pieces) are used as furniture covers while Bhitiya is the impressive wall hanging.Abhala (mirror inset embroidery) has now become a part of the ethnic chic fashion world, where small mirror discs are fixed with closely worked silken thread. Usually the mirror work is done on a dark background with motifs like flowers, creepers, petals, etc. The motifs are inspired by daily life; ancient belief and rituals but they vary from place to place and are passed down over the centuries from mother to daughter.


¤ Embroidery- An Inherit Talent

It is not an unusual site in Kutch to find young girls, their mother and even grandmother sitting together to create the best of cholis (bodices), gaghras (skirts), odhnis (shawls), bed spreads, bags, wall hanging and a variety of ornamental pieces for home decor.
Until recently long hours were spent to create the best in embroidery for personal use but today things are a bit organised and slightly speedier in order to cater to the needs of the tourists as well. At a very early age the girls acquire the embroidery skills, honed by generations and with pride and patience they prepare their own wedding garments.These exclusively created embroidered works are sent to the in-laws for closer examination, which is one of the important criteria for deciding matrimonial alliances.


¤ Distinctive Style of Needlework

Each community in Kutch has its own distinctive style of needlework. Geometric patterns of Sauf embroidery by the Sodha community appear to be the earliest extension of Iranian Baluchistan influence. The time consuming needlework involves stitches on the base by counting every single thread that imparts a uniform balanced look as if the design was woven on cloth. Sodha Rajputs, who migrated from Pakistan during the 1971 Indo-Pak war, are scattered around the village of Sumerasar and border area of Banaskantha.


¤ The Ancient- Ari Embroidery

Ari Embroidery is equally old and famous for its heavy work. Prepared with the help of an awl it represents a cobbler’s stitch, which requires considerable skill and practice. The sharper and finer the hook of the awl, the more refined the quality of the embroidery. This is done in silk or locally made satin called Gajji or on a silky satin fabric Atlash. The royal ladies of Kutch who were fascinated by the Persian motifs like peacock and flowers patronized Ari embroidery.The garments under the spell of Ari embroidery are usually dotted with bootis (motifs), which round off with big sized ones known as Nadir Shahi booti.


¤ Rabari Embroidery

Rabari Embroidery is the most prominent work and widely available. The women of this community wear black skirts with creative edges embroidered and so are their profusely decorated veils with tie and dye patterns. A Rabari bridegroom’s embroidered longcoat is worth a look. Even children wear heavily embroidered salwars and shirts. The Kutchi Rabaris make use of mirrors of various shapes and sizes and therefore their works have a variety though they stick to minute chain stitches.

The finest embroidery with most intricate patterns created by the needle comes from Mutwa and Jat communities. The Mutwas, living in Banni, excel in all styles of embroidery and they work out the tiny mirrors with ease. Fine handspun cotton and quality silk is used in red, white, golden yellow, blue and black to develop patterns and booties interspersed with bird and animal motifs. The Jats, who migrated from Baluchistan, are experts in inserting the smallest of the mirrors with utmost perfection, amidst pleasing colours and design that are usually geometric patterns. The Jats are confined to Dhordo, border villages of Sherwa and Savada. Few of the Jat families also dwell at Naranpar: (17kms from Bhuj en route to Kera).

The ladies from Lohana community in Banni create fantasy with silk thread thickly piled in deep orange, golden yellow, dark red and bright black. The bootis are inset with mirrors, making use of chain stitch, buttonhole stitch, etc.


¤ Applique or Katab

Applique or Katab is another form of decorative needlework, more pronounced in Saurashtra where women from the darzi (tailor) community prepare it for commercial use. Its origin relates to a tailor’s wife who saved the cloth remnants in the shop, which finally created quilt covers, and other decorations. After all, in the land of scarcity nothing should go waste. Unlike the Pipli works of Orissa, here it is done in patchwork based on pieces of coloured and patterned fabric, which is finely cut to serve the motif and then stitched on to a plain background to produce quilts, curtains and wall hangings. Patchwork quilts from Kutch are worked upon by neat running stitches and are quite popular with tourists. The higher the pile of quilts, the higher the owner’s status for it is an indicator to the owner’s status which establishes his ability to accommodate the number of guests simultaneously.


¤ The Creation of Animal Decorations

Next to garments and home decors, a variety of decorations are created for the bullock, horses, camels and palanquins.Shingadiyas (horn covers), lalavati (forehead covers), jhul (saddles), body hangings and kandia (neck ornaments) for bullocks and camels are most popular. At one time the finesse of the palanquin decoration demonstrated the power and wealth of the owner. Leather embroidery is later addition in the long list of marketable craft, being discounted earlier as the produce from lower caste. Now embroidered jootis (shoes) of Banaskantha are quite popular along with a variety of leather products including bedspreads!