Information on Himachal Land

¤ My beautiful land of Himachal

My beautiful land of Himachal
With its high mountain peaks
Abundant herbs and plants
The meandering river Sutlej,
The Chamba palaces, and the
Beautiful land of Sirmaur…
Pahari folk song

Climate
Himachal Pradesh experiences a wide variation in climatic conditions. There are areas that receive very heavy rainfall (in the foothills) and those that are cold and almost rainless (the deserts of Lahaul, Spiti and Puh). Summer lasts from mid-April to end-June and most parts become very hot (except in places over 3,000m which experience mild summer) with the average maximum temperature ranging from 28ºC to 32ºC. Winter, from late November to mid-March, is the longest and severest season. Snowfall is very common in tracts above 2,200 m with the mercury remaining below freezing point in the Higher and Trans-Himalayas. Autumn is the best season here when the skies are bright and sunny during the day and clear and starry at night.

The Hills
More than 2400km long and some 160km wide, the Himalayas are the greatest physical feature on earth. and Himachal Pradesh is a generous section of this huge formation. The name itself is descriptive of its characteristics – Himachal being an ancient Sanskrit compound of hima (snow) and achal (that which cannot be moved) – and thus simply means ‘the Mountain State’.

Himachal Pradesh (HP) is a complex mosaic of hills, lush valleys and snow-clad peaks. It straddles the Himalayas from the foothills, over peaks, to the valleys of Lahaul and Spiti. The prominent ranges which curve across the state are the Shiwaliks, Pir Panjal, Pangi, Zaskar and Dhauladhar. The highest peaks are Shilla (7,026m), Manerang (6,597m) and Shipki (6,608m). The hills rise gradually from the south to the north of the state – the outer Himalaya or Shiwaliks, the Lower or Lesser Himalaya, the Main or Great Himalaya and Trans or Tibetan Himalaya.

The dun type valleys like Kiarda dun, the Kangra valley and Chakki dun are home to rich deep alluvial soils as they are drained by rivers and streams which have deposited rich sediments into the valley bottom. The Inner Himalayas have thin bare soils that usually go with high mountains, while the valleys of Lahaul and Spiti have nothing but cold desert-like soil. Drang in Mandi has the country’s only rock salt mines and is thus prey to heavy quarrying. So are hills in Sirmaur, Mandi, Solan and Bilaspur districts – they yield limestone, dolomite and marble. Landslides are not uncommon in the monsoons, so it’s best not to venture out far during the rains without a local guide.

Climb Every Mountain
The Himalayas offer information on some of the most thrilling and challenging mountaineering opportunities in the world. The Mountaineering Institute at Manali with regional centres at Dharamsala, Bharmour and Jispa, organizes expeditions every year and offers adventure courses as well. Patalsu and Sitidhar are among the easier peaks in the Manali region while other popular climbs are to Deo Tibba, Moulkila, Hanuman Tibba, Centre Peak and Indresen.

Some of the most vibrant tracks in India run through the passes and valleys of Himachal. In fact, trekking is one of the best ways to explore Himachal. The best terrain for trekking lies between the gentle Shiwaliks and the tough upper reaches of the Greater Himalayas. Some of the popular treks are from Manali to Beas Kund, from Manali to Bhrigu Lake and from Dalhousie to Khajjiar. If you’re more intrepid you could try your legs at Chandra Tal, cross the Baralacha La to Keylong, the Rohtang Pass from Manali, or the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges to Lahaul and Kullu. July to September are ideal months for trekking in Lahaul and Bharmour, while in Narkanda, Manali and Kangra regions it is done between April and November.

The Valleys
Much of HP can be easily divided according to its many lovely valleys. Lahaul and Spiti stretch from the Chandra Valley in the northwest to the Lingti Valley along the Spiti River. The Chamba and Kangra vales lie on either side of the mighty Dhauladhars, while the remote Pattan Valley is separated from Chamba by the Pir Panjal. Kullu Valley stretches from Mandi to Manali, and the Parbati Valley obviously follows the Parbati River. The Malana Valley is quite an interesting place, supposed to be the oldest democracy in the world.

The valleys with their charming little hamlets and fields full of grain are a sight to behold. It is believed that the beautiful Kullu valley was once a lake, formed when the Beas was temporarily blocked by jolts in the mountains. Later when the natural dam burst, the lake waters drained away and the present day valley came into being. Large terraces are found on either side of the river in the valley. But nothing can beat the ruf’n’tuf formations along the banks of the Chandra River which came into being thanks to glacial action and wind erosion. It has been said of the Chandra River that "…No villages adorn its banks, no attempts at cultivation, no human life are met with and nothing greets the eye but the never ending monotonous cliffs which are lopped by the fierce stream as it rushes in wild fury against its banks."

Fly or Ski
Information on Himachal offers some of the best skiing and paragliding opportunities in the world. Come winter and most of the skiing slopes in Solang Nullah, Kufri and Narkanda are dotted with skiers trying their luck. A recent-day development, heli-skiing is fast becoming popular too. The Mountaineering Institute at Manali organizes skiing courses from January onwards, while the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation does so simultaneously at Narkanda.

As for hang and para gliding, check out Billing in Kangra valley. It hosts India’s only international hang gliding festival. The perfect time for you to gliding would be in March-April or mid-August-November, when equipment is easily available.

Glaciers, Rivers & Lakes
The many glaciers above the snow line feed the fast flowing rivers of Himachal Pradesh. In fact, the whole of the Himalayas is like one mammoth reservoir of snow. The Beas Kund glacier near the famous Rohtang pass in Kullu is the mother of the Beas. The other biggies are the Bara Shigri, the largest glacier in Lahaul valley, the Bhadal Glacier, the Bhaga Glacier and the Chandra Glacier. Alpine pastures spring up around them in summer turning the place into a picnic spot for migratory graziers.

Life moves at a gentle pace in Himachal, but not the rivers; they are always in great hurry. In the furrows between the many ranges rush the perennial rivers that drain the snow slopes off the crests. The major rivers criss-crossing the roughly square Himachal are Beas, Chenab, Spiti, Sutlej, Ravi and Yamuna. The Satluj is unique, the only river in HP to rise from beyond the Himalayas. It begins as the outflow from the sacred lake of Rakas Tal in southern Tibet, and enters Himachal through a notch in the Zaskar Range at Shipki. Then, showing scant respect for the impeding rocks, it chooses a direct course, carving out an awesome gorge for itself. This is Kinnaur, a trans-Himalayan conduit for culture and wildlife.

Each of the rivers in turn has numerous tributaries. Most of these join the Indus River system which flows into the Arabian Sea. Dams have been constructed over them at many places to exploit their enormous hydel power potential. The Bhakra Dam on the Sutlej has created Govind Sagar, the largest lake in the region. Come monsoon and numerous waterfalls and gurgling streams gush out from every nook and corner of the land. Apart from these dancing brooks, there are hot water sulphur springs at Manikaran and Vashist which are a balm for tired limbs.

Himachal Pradesh is also known for its pretty-as-a-picture lakes. The Bhagsunath Lake is perched high up on the Dhauladhar range and is surrounded by oaks and conifers. But sadly, even this is not high enough to elude pollution’s spidery arms. The same applies to the Renuka Lake in Sirmaur and Khajjiar near Dalhousie. The unfortunate condition of these lakes is largely due to the tourist traffic including trekkers and pilgrims. But some lakes like the Chandra Tal (in a large glacial depression in the Lahaul valley) and Manimahesh (with the towering Manimahesh Kailash peak as a backdrop) bring cheer with their crystal clear waters.

Whitewater Fever
If the blood in your veins urges you to leap into the sometimes-tricky Himachal rivers, go rafting. Or kayaking. Rafting mania comes to roost in October and tarries till late April with a break in January when the water is simply too cold. The Beas, Spiti, Chandrabhaga (or Chenab) and Satluj have spectacular rapids but hey, this is no ride for the lily-livered.

For those who prefer safe and more sedentary sports, angling or fishing is a good option. Trout can be found in the Beas near Manali as well as in the Pabbar River at Rohru. Mahseer (a large freshwater fish) can be hooked at Govind Sagar, Nadaun, Aut and the Pong Dam. But don’t even dream of going fishing without a license from the tourist department in the district.

Note:– Most of the areas that offer adventure sports are ecologically fragile. Please do not leave non-bio-degradable material plastic bags and metal cans behind.

Flora & Fauna
Himachal is a land of jade forests and fresh air. As much as 68% of the land area is covered with jungles. While the foothills and valleys are a refreshing green, the areas above the snow line are almost bare. The southernmost tracts are dominated by sal (Shorea robusta), sisham, chir pine, dry deciduous and moist broad-leafed forests. The temperate region above this grows oaks, deodar, blue pine, fir and spruce. In the uppermost climes, trees are sturdy with a vast network of roots (to help them tide over the weeks of burial under heavy snow). You’ll mostly find alders, birches, rhododendrons and moist alpine scrubs in the name of vegetation. The tough rhododendron, by the way, is an amazing plant and of terrific importance in the ecological chain. By attracting insects, which in turn attract birds, it forms a major link in high altitude ecosystems. The rhododendrons you see along the hillsides around Shimla from March to May are breathtakingly beautiful.

Himachal is the fruit bowl of the country with orchards scattered all over the place. Meadows and pastures are often seen clinging to the dangerously steep slopes. After the winter snow thaws, the hillsides and orchards bloom with wild flowers, while gladiolas, carnations, marigolds, roses, chrysanthemums, tulips, lilies and other flowers are carefully cultivated. The state government is gearing up to make Himachal the flower basket of the world.

From thick sub-tropical forests to the dry alpine vegetation, Himachal home to a wide variety of animals. This includes the leopard, which is the most widely distributed mammal in the entire state, the snow leopard, ghoral (goat-like stout animal), musk deer which is the state animal and monal (a pretty bird in nine iridescent colours), the state bird. HP has 11 major national parks and sanctuaries – the largest number in the Himalayan region. The Great Himalayan National Park in Kullu – the first in the state – was created to conserve the flora and fauna of the main Himalayan range, while the Pin Valley National Park to conserve the flora and fauna of the cold desert.

Taxol – the Wonder Drug
The taxol is a wonder drug used in chemotherapy to cure breast and ovary cancer. It is extracted from the leaves and barks of the Himalayan yew (Taxus baccate), which grows in our very own Himachal (in Shimla, Kinnaur, Kullu, Mandi and Chamba). It is locally referred to as birmi or thuno. The leaves are needle-shaped with dark green upper surfaces and yellowish-green lower surfaces. The tree slowly grows to a height of about 6m but its regeneration through seeds is rather poor. Vegetative multiplication is practiced with the help of cuttings. A number of leading multinational drug companies are looking at sourcing this raw material from the Himalayas.