Ajmer Travel

Population : 450,000
Distance : 132km from Jaipur
STD : 0145

Flanked by the Aravalli hills in southeast Rajasthan, Ajmer rose out from the sands at the feet of Taragarh hills in 145AD. During the 10^th century Ajmer was supposedly a garden city, although now the gardens have disappeared to make way for modern buildings. A part of Mewar till the 19th century, Ajmer was also the last district to officialy merge with the present state of Rajasthan along with Mewar, with that happening in November 1956, eight years after India’s Independence.

¤ Major Pilgrimage Center

Ajmer today is a major pilgrimage spot, especially for the dargah (shrine) of the Sufi saint Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chisti who is equally revered by both Hindus and Muslims. Born in Persia, the saint lost his father at a very young age. After giving away all his belongings to charity, Chisti became a disciple of the Persian Sufi saint Khwaja Usman Chisti Harooni. While in his fifties, Chisti went back to Afghanistan and returned to India with Muhammad Ghori’s army in 1192AD. The 12-day Urs to mark the death of the saint is a big affair in Ajmer.

The Urs falls on the 25th day of Jamadi-ul-Akhir (sixth lunar moon), and is started off by the ceremonial hoisting of a white flag on the shrine by one of the representatives of the Chisti. Professional singers called qawwals sit in groups near the shrine and sing qawwalis, a popular form of Urdu poetry set to music. On the first day of the Urs, the dargah is washed with rose water and sandalwood paste, and atar (perfume) is sprinkled liberally on the tomb. This ritual of cleansing the tomb is called ghusal. Finally, the tomb is covered with an expensive embroidered silk cloth called sajjada nashin. On the last day of the festival a door called Jannati Darwaza (gateway to heaven) is thrown open, symbolising the access to heaven for all those who participated in the Urs.


¤ Romance Prevail in Ajmer

Ajmer has one of the most popular romantic stories of medieval India linked to it. Its prince Prithviraj Chauhana (died 1192AD), son of Someshwar, one of the most powerful rulers in Rajasthan at that time, had a thing going with Sanyukta. But the problem was that Sanyukta was the daughter of Someshwar’s sworn enemy Raja Jaichand of Kannauj. However, Prithviraj was known for his military, riding and hunting skills and also for his chivalry. Sanyukta, smitten by Prithviraj’s exploits, chose him as her husband. The story goes that Jaichand organised a swayamvara (a gathering of all eligible princes) from which his daughter was to choose a groom. Understandably, Prithviraj was not invited, and instead a statue of his likeness was placed as a doorkeeper at the main entrance. Sanyukta would have nothing of this humiliation of her beloved, and walking up to the statue placed a garland around its neck. Then, unexpectedly, rode in Prithviraj in true Lochinvar gallantry, picked up his would-be and rode off to Ajmer while everyone stood around watching. Unfortunately the `lived happily ever after’ story was not to be, for Prithviraj was soon defeated and killed by Muhammad Ghori.


¤ Mughal Architecture in the City

As far as the Mughal era is concerned, Ajmer was an important place for emperors. In 1556, Akbar’s military campaigns took him to Rajasthan, and he annexed Ajmer and made it his royal retreat, building a fort and making it the headquarters for his campaigns in Rajputana and Gujarat. In 1613 Jahangir arrived in Ajmer ostensibly to oversee his campaigns against the Rana of Mewar. He stayed here for three years, spending most of his time building monuments, hunting and visiting nearby places while his generals fought the Rana. Eventually Ajmer became a winter retreat for Mughal emperors and was a witness to the birth of Dara Shikoh, Shah Jahan’s eldest son. Akbar visited Ajmer off and on, especially Khwaja Moin-ud-din Chisti’s shrine, and contributed lavishly to its improvisation. Shah Jahan’s association with Ajmer was perhaps the most fruitful for the city, for he contributed with money and built beautiful monuments as well.


¤ Holy City of Pushkar

Ajmer is also the base for pilgrims on their way to Pushkar Lake, a sacred spot for Hindus who come here to bathe during the month of Kartik (October / November). Modern Ajmer is famous for silver and gold jewellery (which all women in Rajasthan wear with much fanfare), tie-dye and block printed textiles, embroidered blouses and shoes called mojaris (see Rajasthan Arts & Crafts). The areas of Ajmer and Sawai Madhopur have been the home for the Sahariya tribe, one of the most cruelly exploited tribes in India owing to their continued illiteracy. If you’re in or around Ajmer during the colourful festival of Holi, taking a break from running around the land to see the all-night dancing called gindar. There’s much merry making during Holi, and the gindar is a colourful dance in which the Hindu caste barrier is broken down for one night (see Dance). The algoza, a musical instrument, is an Ajmer special. This popular instrument is chiefly used to accompany all the merry singing for gindar and is made by joining two regular flutes together and then blowing into them!


¤ Ajmer and Neighbouring

Kishangarh were one of the finest centres for art to achieve new heights, and in Ajmer can be found one of the finest marble jali (screen) works. Kishangarh gave birth to the Bani Thani style of painting, a form of miniatures which do not fail to fascinate even today. and if you’re in Ajmer, do take time out to go to Pushkar, a lake city known for its camel fair in November, and its temples. Pushkar also happens to be the only place in the world with a temple dedicated to Brahma, the Creator of the Universe according to Hindu tradition.


¤ Badnor Fort in Ajmer

80km southwest of Ajmer is Badnor, famous for its fort which was built over 500 years ago. It is a fortified town and is surrounded by 10 lakes which dry up in summer. Badnor fort has been taken over by the government and now lies in a ruined state. However, there are some good views of the town and nearby areas from the fort which stands on a small hillock. Badnor is a rural town, and the only place here worth visiting here is the fort.