Lohagarh Fort
Lohagarh' means 'fort of iron'. and the
fort was what its name suggested; virtually impregnable. Protected by
deep moats on all sides, it was said that it could fall "only
when a crocodile swallowed up all the water of the moat." It's
obvious that the Jats did not believe in laxity. So while lesser forts
gave way more easily, Lohargarh stood firm, giving Bharatpur the
security it needed.
¤ The Construction of the Fort
The fort sits on an artificial island in the middle of the town, with
a somewhat forlorn look about it. Yet it is the focal point of
Bharatpur today, just as it was of the town's history in the past.
Begun by Raja Suraj Mal in 1732, it was completed only 60 years later
(see History of Bharatpur
for more on Suraj Mal). The strong point of this once-formidable fort
were its thick outer mud walls, which lovingly absorbed all the firing
from the Mughal and British armies. The cannon balls would sink into
the mud, only to be collected later and fired back at the enemy! These
terrific walls were about 7km in length and took as many as eight
years to complete. Lohargarh was probably inspired by the mahi durg
(mud fort) as described in ancient Sanskrit scriptures. But sadly, the
walls were broken down by the British when they took over the fort in
1826, though portions of the inner walls still remain.
¤ Fort Museum
Today most of the fort is occupied by government offices and a
museum. One thing which strikes one immediately about the architecture
is the lack of ostentation; Lohargarh is definitely much simpler as
far as carvings, paintings and other frills go. With its emphasis on
security and security only, there's almost no room for unnecessary
ornamentation. It is modest and functional, which is perhaps something
to do with the Jat way of life. Some of the residential chambers do
have some adornment, but only very little.
¤ Ashtadhatu Gate
The main entrance to this grand fort is the Ashtadhatu Gate.
Ashtadhatu means 'eight metals', for the spikes on this edifice are
made of eight different metals. This north-facing imposing gateway
with huge rounded bastions and paintings of war elephants carries a
unique history. Originally it used to be the gate of the Chittorgarh
Fort (in Rajasthan itself). From there it was carried to Delhi by
Sultan Alauddin Khilji who plundered the Rajput city in the late 13th
century. The victorious Jats then tore it down from the walls of
imperial Delhi during their attack in 1764 and brought it back with
them to Bharatpur. The Lohiya Gate in the south of the fort was also
lifted from Delhi in a similar fashion.
¤ Fort Palace
Inside the fort are three palaces, Mahal Khas, Kamra Palace and the
Palace of Badan Singh. The Kamra Palace next to the Badan Singh Palace
was the place for storing all the armoury and treasury of the fort.
The eastern Mahal Khas, built by Raja Balwant Singh (ruled 1826-53),
contrasts sharply with the rest of the Spartan fort; it has some
beautiful wall paintings. The chambers are small with ornate pierced
stone windows, and lovely patterned marble tiled floors. Badan Singh’s
Palace was created around 1733, but was elaborated greatly by the
succeeding generations.
¤ State Archaeological Museum
The Kamra Palace and the durbar hall of the Badan Singh Palace were
converted into the State Archaeological Museum in 1944. The museum
houses an interesting collection of sculptural findings of eastern
Rajasthan, with some pieces from the 2nd century AD. The terra cotta
toys of the early centuries excavated at the nearby village of Noh,
and the 10th century Ganesha are some of the nicer exhibits. There's
also a fine carving of Shiva as Nataraja (the cosmic dancer),
belonging to the 10th century. But the best piece is perhaps the 2nd
century red sandstone shivalinga (Shiva's phallic symbol).
¤ Art Gallery
The Art Gallery of the museum has specimens of miniature paintings on
peepal leaves, mica and old lithopapers along with some old portraits
of the maharajas of Bharatpur. The upper storey houses the Armoury
section where various types of guns and miniature cannons called
chaddre, which were used in the 18th century, are displayed.
¤ Nehru Park
Between the Museum and the main entrance, the Ashtadhatu Gate, is the
Nehru Park. It is a pleasant place to sit and enjoy the breeze, with
pretty lawns, flowerbeds and the Madhuban Cafeteria.
¤ Visiting Hours
(Museum) : 1000-1630 (closed on Fridays)
¤ Towers
The Jawahar Burj was built by Suraj Mal in 1765, in celebration of
the successful attack on Delhi. There are a series of pavilions here,
the ceilings of which display some badly deteriorating frescoes. The
Fateh Burj is a victory tower too, raised after driving away the
British forces in 1805. It was from these towers that the Jat
maharajas happily surveyed their fast-growing territory.
¤ The magnificent Palace Carving
The sandstone durbar (maharaja's meeting hall) with finely carved
walls, pillars and archways now houses a museum. There's an iron
pillar in the palace complex called the Vijay Stambha (Victory Column)
on which is inscribed the genealogy of the Jat kings starting right
from Lord Krishna! (As we have already said before, it was a matter of
great prestige to trace one's lineage from the gods themselves).
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